Autumn in Segovia: A Traveller's Guide to Chestnuts and Roasted Seeds
Autumn in Segovia: A Traveller's Guide to Chestnuts and Roasted Seeds
As the air turns crisp, Segovia's streets fill with the smell of roasting chestnuts and toasted seeds. Here's where to find them and how to enjoy them like a local.
The Chestnut Season in Segovia
Autumn in Segovia, roughly from late October through December, brings cool days and the unmistakable aroma of roasting chestnuts. The season peaks in November, when daytime temperatures hover around 10–15°C and evenings drop to 5°C, perfect for a warm paper cone of castañas. Vendors set up small carts in the historic centre, often near the Aqueduct and along Calle Real. A cone typically costs €2–3, and the chestnuts are roasted on-site in a large drum, then served hot. Look for carts with a queue of locals—that's a good sign of freshness.
Chestnuts here are usually the sweet, starchy variety from the nearby Sierra de Guadarrama. They're scored before roasting so they peel easily. Eat them while walking; the warmth is part of the experience. If you're staying overnight, book a hotel near the Aqueduct or in the old town so you can step out for an evening stroll and a cone without a long walk back. The streets are lively until around 10 pm, even in cooler weather.
Roasted Seeds and Other Street Nuts
Alongside chestnuts, you'll see vendors selling pipas (sunflower seeds) and toasted almonds or peanuts. These are less seasonal but appear more often in autumn. A small bag of pipas costs about €1.50, and they're a popular snack among locals enjoying a paseo. Look for them near the Plaza Mayor and along Calle Isabel la Católica. While these are available year-round, the autumn chill makes them feel more appropriate. They're lightly salted and best eaten fresh; avoid bags that have been sitting open.
For something more substantial, try the toasted corn (maíz tostado) sold at some stalls. It's crunchy and slightly smoky, a lesser-known snack that's worth seeking out. You'll find it near the Corral de la Villa or at the Friday market in the Plaza Mayor. As with chestnuts, quality varies; go for stalls with a high turnover. If you're sensitive to salt, ask for sin sal. These snacks are affordable and a good way to fuel a walking tour of the city's Romanesque churches and the Alcázar.
Where to Find the Best Street Food
The most reliable spot is the stretch of Calle Real between the Aqueduct and the Plaza Mayor. Here, several vendors set up from mid-morning until late evening, especially on weekends. Another cluster appears near the entrance to the Alcázar, catering to tourists but still decent. For a more local feel, head to the Plaza del Azoguejo, just below the Aqueduct, where you'll often find a cart or two. Prices are consistent across the centre; don't expect bargains, but the quality is generally good.
Avoid the stalls right at the base of the Aqueduct if you're looking for authenticity—they're convenient but can be pricier and less fresh. Instead, walk five minutes up Calle Cervantes or into the Judería for quieter spots. The Jewish Quarter has a few small shops selling roasted nuts year-round, but during autumn they add chestnuts to the mix. If you're visiting on a weekday, note that some vendors only operate from Thursday to Sunday. Plan your snack accordingly.
Practical Tips for Your Autumn Visit
Segovia is easily reached by AVE train from Madrid in just 28 minutes, making it a perfect day trip or weekend stay. If you're staying overnight, hotel prices in autumn are generally lower than in spring, with mid-range options around €70–100 per night. Book a hotel in the old town to be within walking distance of the street food and main sights. The city is compact, and most vendors are within a 15-minute walk of each other. Wear comfortable shoes; the streets are cobbled and hilly.
Autumn weather can be unpredictable, so bring a light jacket and an umbrella. Chestnut vendors usually operate until the end of December, but the best quality is in November. If you're driving, parking in the centre is limited; use the underground car park at the Aqueduct. For a side trip, the royal palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso is 11 km away and has its own autumn charm, but the focus here is Segovia itself. Book your Segovia hotel early for November weekends, as they fill up with Spanish visitors.
Before you book
The questions people ask about Segovia, answered with this month’s numbers.
Chestnut season runs from late October to December, with November being the peak month for quality and availability. Vendors appear daily, weather permitting.
Expect to pay €2–3 for a small cone. Prices are consistent across the historic centre, so choose the stall with the shortest queue.
Yes, look for pipas (sunflower seeds) and toasted corn. They're inexpensive and widely available, especially near the Plaza Mayor.
Calle Real and the Plaza del Azoguejo are reliable. Avoid the immediate base of the Aqueduct for better value; walk a few minutes into the side streets.
November weekends can get busy with Spanish visitors, so booking a week or two ahead is wise to secure the best rates and central locations.
Days are cool (10–15°C) and evenings chillier (5°C). Bring layers and a waterproof jacket, as rain is possible.
Yes, the AVE high-speed train takes 28 minutes from Madrid Chamartín. Trains run frequently, making it a convenient day trip.
Most vendors prefer cash, though some may accept cards. It's safer to carry small bills and coins for quick purchases.
